7 Early Spring Lawn Problems (And How to Fix Them)

With some simple care and attention, you can fix these early spring lawn problems and set yourself up for a healthy, green lawn all season long.

Taking action now will help your grass recover from winter damage and prepare it to withstand summer heat and stress. You’ll be glad you addressed these issues early rather than waiting until they become bigger problems.

1) Address Winter Lawn Damage

Winter can be tough on your lawn. As snow melts away, you might notice areas of damage that need your attention before spring growth begins.

The first step is to give your lawn a light raking. This removes dead grass and debris that accumulated during winter months. It also helps you identify problem areas that need special care.

Look for signs of snow mold, which appears as matted, straw-colored patches. Gently rake these areas to help them dry out and recover faster.

Salt damage from winter de-icing products often shows up along driveways and walkways. Flush these areas with water to dilute salt concentration in the soil.

Low spots that collected melting snow may develop fungal problems. Improve drainage in these areas by adding topsoil or aerating the lawn.

If you notice bare patches, plan to reseed them once soil temperatures warm up. Early spring is perfect for this task.

Don’t forget to remove any leftover leaves or branches. A clean lawn surface allows sunlight to reach grass roots and encourages new growth.

2) Combat Thick Thatch Layer

Thatch is the layer of dead grass, roots, and debris that builds up between your green grass and the soil. A little thatch (less than half an inch) is normal and even beneficial. But when it gets too thick, it can block water, nutrients, and air from reaching your grass roots.

You can check your thatch by cutting a small, triangular piece of turf from your lawn. If the brown, spongy layer between grass and soil is more than one inch thick, it’s time to take action.

For moderate thatch problems, a dethatching rake or a power dethatcher rental from your local garden center can help. Run the tool across your lawn to pull up the excess thatch.

Be careful not to set power dethatchers too low or you might damage your lawn. The goal is to remove the thatch, not tear up your healthy grass.

For extremely thick thatch, you might need more aggressive methods. Some professionals recommend core aeration followed by dethatching for the best results.

Regular mulching when you mow can help prevent future thatch buildup. The tiny grass clippings break down more easily than longer ones, adding nutrients back to your soil without contributing to thatch.

3) Control Early Weed Growth

Early spring is prime time for weeds to start growing in your lawn. These unwanted plants compete with your grass for nutrients, water, and space.

The best way to fight weeds is to prevent them before they appear. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide early in the spring season. This creates a barrier that stops weed seeds from sprouting.

For weeds that are already growing, you’ll need a post-emergent herbicide. Products like Scotts® Turf Builder® Weed & Feed can kill dandelions and clover while feeding your grass at the same time.

Don’t forget that a thick, healthy lawn is your best defense against weeds. When you water deeply but infrequently, you encourage strong root growth in your grass that helps crowd out weeds.

Mowing at the right height also helps control weeds. Keep your grass a bit taller (about 3 inches for most types) to shade the soil and prevent weed seeds from germinating.

Remember to follow all product instructions carefully when applying any weed control products to your lawn.

4) Revive Bare Lawn Spots

Bare spots in your lawn can be an eyesore, but fixing them is easier than you might think. These bald patches can happen for many reasons—dog urine, heavy foot traffic, or disease.

First, identify what caused the bare spot. This helps you prevent the same problem from happening again after you fix it.

Next, prepare the area by removing any dead grass or debris. Rake the soil lightly to loosen the top layer, which helps new grass seeds take root better.

Spread grass seed evenly over the bare area. Choose a seed variety that matches your existing lawn for a seamless look when it grows in.

Cover the seeds with a thin layer of topsoil or compost. This protects them and provides nutrients for growth.

Water the area gently but thoroughly. Keep the soil moist (not soaking wet) until the new grass reaches about 2 inches tall.

Be patient! New grass takes time to establish. Avoid walking on newly seeded areas until the grass is well-established.

5) Manage Lawn Pests Effectively

Spring is when many lawn pests become active again. Keep an eye out for grubs, billbugs, and chinch bugs that can damage your grass.

For grubs, apply treatments in early spring before they grow larger and cause more damage. You can use natural options like beneficial nematodes or targeted pesticides if the infestation is severe.

Billbugs can be managed with proper watering and fertilization. Try to raise your mowing height to promote stronger roots that resist these pests better.

Regular watering helps your lawn stay strong against pests. Aim for 1 to 1.5 inches of water weekly, including rainfall. This builds resilience in your grass.

Some pests respond well to biological controls. For example, Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) is a naturally occurring soil bacteria that can be applied weekly to control certain insects.

Choose grass varieties that resist common pests in your area. Your local garden center can recommend types that naturally fight off the pests common to your region.

Remember that a healthy lawn is your best defense. Regular fertilization, proper mowing, and good watering habits create grass that can withstand pest pressure better.

6) Prevent Grass Diseases

Spring’s damp and warm conditions create the perfect environment for lawn diseases to take hold. Keeping your grass healthy now helps prevent bigger problems later.

Start with basic prevention by keeping your mower blades sharp and clean. Dull blades tear grass instead of cutting it cleanly, creating entry points for disease.

Water your lawn properly—about 1 inch per week including rainfall. It’s best to water deeply but infrequently in the morning so grass can dry before evening.

Reduce shade where possible, as many lawn diseases thrive in damp, shady areas. Trimming overhanging branches can increase sunlight and air circulation.

Improve soil aeration if your lawn feels compacted. This helps water drain properly and prevents the soggy conditions that diseases love.

Avoid applying excess nitrogen, especially in fall. Instead, use a balanced fertilizer appropriate for spring to strengthen your grass without promoting disease-friendly growth.

If you notice disease symptoms, avoid mowing or watering until conditions improve. This prevents spreading the problem throughout your yard.

7) Optimize Spring Watering Schedule

Spring is the perfect time to adjust your watering routine for a healthier lawn. Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation and prevent disease. The early hours give your grass time to dry before evening, which helps prevent fungal problems.

Focus on deep but infrequent watering. This encourages roots to grow deeper into the soil, making your lawn more drought-resistant. Aim for about one inch of water per week, whether from rainfall or irrigation.

Check your soil moisture before watering. Stick a screwdriver into the ground – if it goes in easily, you probably don’t need to water yet. Overwatering can be just as harmful as underwatering.

Inspect your irrigation equipment now. Replace cracked hoses, fix leaky connections, and clean clogged sprinkler heads before the hot summer months arrive.

Consider upgrading to a smart irrigation controller that adjusts to weather conditions. These systems can save water and money while keeping your lawn looking great.

Water your lawn in zones if needed. Areas that get more sun may need more frequent watering than shaded spots.